Hydro’s Round OZ Tour

The West Coast

Day 54 – Broome to Barn Hill Station – 141km

Having achieved everything I wanted to in Broome, I left a night earlier and headed the short distance to Barn Hill Station.  A nice guy from Broome that I met on Lake Argyle Cruise said it was a favorite for them. 

The turn-in off the road is onto a 9km stretch of red bulldust road with a few cattle gates.  While some of it looked intimidating, I was able to weave about and find the shallower sections and made it to the station without issue at slow speed.

Got a camping spot right overlooking the tortured looking red earth and onto the beautiful beach.  Headed down after setting up camp to take some pics and have a swim.  There were at least 2 other people there that verified this is pretty safe swimming, but just keep an eye out.

The rock formations and colors surrounding the beach were fantastic.  Sat down and chatted with a nice couiple and you always learn something.  Seems this outback travelling thing is something where people just let their guard down and talk unlike the city.

Pre-ordered dinner – tonight was lasagne, served in a plastic takeaway container along with another full of salad.  Don’t mind camping but always happy to have a real meal when there is one.

The sunset was totally amazing.  Perched my little camp chair on the edge of the little cliff where my site was and just watched it go down before retiring.

Day 55 – Barn Hill Station to Eighty Mile Beach – 257km

Flat white at the station kiosk and was packed and out.  A chap I had met camping in the Silent Grove campground near Bell Gorge on the Gibb (the not quite axe murderer guy) had recommended this one and it was great for a night stopover to break up the journey South.

Another 9km red bulldust driveway – it’s a test!

Same deal here with preordering dinner and picking up at 6pm.  Having sorted that, found out I could ride on the beach – it is hard pack white sand.  Took all the luggage and extra fuel and water off the bike so had half a chance to get over the dune of soft stuff and onto the beach.

Beautiful WA white sand and turquoise water.  This one was a definite “no swim beach” with potential for sharks, crocodiles and stingers.  And had such a shallow incline you would have to go out a few hundred meters to get to a decent depth at which point you’d be very alone.  “Fishing only” was the instruction, and the target species was Threadfin Salmon.

Having crossed the dune successfully, was having an absolute ball riding up and down this extensive beach.  Stopped a few times to talk to people fishing.  When it was time to head back, I realized I’d taken the GPS off the bike and couldn’t figure out where the exit point from the beach was … stopped to talk to a couple of oldies who were fishing and they got me sorted.   Then into the soft sand at the top of the beach and back wheel just sunk in.  Was spinning away and just managing to make an inch at a time with my protective riding Crocs paddling away and finally broke out of it without getting bogged .. while a few people watched on.

Day 56 – Eighty Mile Beach – Point Samson – 635km

The other good recommendation from my axe mate was Point Samson.  Made my way down from Eighty Mile Beach via Port Hedland.  Port Hedland is a funny place.  They don’t even try to dress it up to look like something other than a biggish town completely immersed in industry.  Red dust everywhere.  There were signs to South Hedland where I assume some people choose to live outside all the mess .. but later learned is the even more undesirable part of town.

On down the coast to Roeburne, and the turn off to Point Samson.  Bypassed it for now so could explore Karratha and Dampier.  Visited the red dog memorial.  Checked out Hearson Cove where there is this famous phenomenon when the moon is full called Staircase to the Moon.  Appears like you can walk up to it.  The super shallow beach means the tide goes out hundreds of meters which contributes to this.   Rode around some tracks to get a good view of the Karratha gas facility that some of my software had gone into in a prior life.  And visited the Murujuga NP on the Burrup peninsula which has opened up not long ago and allows you to see the most dense collection of ancient rock art in the world I believe.  They are petroglyphs so seem to have worn well.

Back via Karratha to pick up my special oil as my bike had mysteriously started spitting some at a slow rate.  There is not very much at Point Samson but the cabin I got in the holiday park had a view to the horizon over the sea, and next door is a tavern which was great for dinner and drinks with a great view over the water.  I counted 13 iron ore ships queued up in the distance, and just beyond them were two offshore gas platforms on the Northwest Shelf.

Day 57 – Point Samson day off

Was now refining my arrival to Exmouth to time up with Lizi and had a day to kill.  Hung out at the pool and talked to various folks.  Had another go at fishing – not catching.  And sorted the domestics.  Back to the tavern for another nice meal and beautiful sunset.

Day 58 – Point Samson to Karijini NP Dales Gorge – 489km

Woke up and was slightly puzzled – it appeared there had been a shower overnight.  Road and bike were wet.  This was the first rain seen since Sydney.  Russ and I had about 3 drops on our helmets in QLD, but that was it other than a short sharp evening shower in Weipa.

Set off just after dark to head into Karijini NP which has some impressive gorges.  I’d decided to take a 350km dirt route which allows you to enjoy Millstream Chichester NP.  The scenery was stunning with what looked like volcano cores rising up out of the flats, lots of long cliffs and other formations.  Some of the best of the Pilbara. The morning light was perfectly positioned from behind just lighting it all up in the best way.  The green and gold of the spinifex against the reddest of red iron ore rock makes for a spectacular contrast.

The road was pretty good but for loose rocks.  Weird thing was didn’t see anyone for 4 hours – bar one guy with a radiator problem – before I turned a corner onto a mining road to Tom Price, and then there were many huge trucks.  Headed from Tom Price out to the Karijini Visitors center and to Dales Gorge campground 100km or so further on.  On the way, was able to do Hamersley Gorge which sits alone and made tomorrow’s itinerary simpler and shorter.

Took a sunset walk along the rim of Dales Gorge – beautiful fine weather and sky.  It was this night I realized the summer sleeping bag I had wouldn’t cut it going south, so Lizi added that to the list of stuff to bring.  Dehydrated food tonight.

Day 59 – Dales Gorge – Tom Price via all the gorges – 187km

Set off first thing as had a sequence of gorges to cover through the day – you want to do them moving in one direction across the park or you would be clocking up unwanted mileage.  Hiked into Dales Gorge to see the Fortescue Falls and Fern Pools. 

Then rode out to various lookouts and gorges.  The absolute highlights were Kermits Pool in Hancock Gorge and the Handrail Pool in Weano Gorge.  These gorges have some blue asbestos – not considered dangerous if not disturbed.  Not far from Karijini is Wittenoom – the mining town built around a blue asbestos mine.  In 2008 it was declared a non-town.  You can’t go in there and wouldn’t want to but can drive right next to it – they left all the buildings up and just cordoned it off.  Many people who had worked and/or lived there became ill.

Having gorged on gorges, I disgorged and headed into Tom Price.  It got me 100km closer to Exmouth where I was meeting Lizi in two days time.  Suffice to say, there is one motel, and it’s crap.  And is $285 a night because the mines will pay it.

The tavern attached was ok for dinner and a beer.  I took EVERYthing off the bike for the night due to warning signs in the parking lot.

Day 60 – Tom Price to Exmouth via Parapadoo – 643km

Feeling like I’d just about had my fill of remote dirt rides for this trip, I enquired as to an all bitumen route to Exmouth – it adds 60km compared to going straight through the mine site and takes you via Parapadoo.  I was not aware until getting to Parapadoo that is is also a mining center with at least 4 significant mines that are serviced out of it.  The first surprise was 10km short of it when I saw a jet with the flying kangaroo on the tail, and just then another landed.  All for the mines.

The entire ride was really very enjoyable with formations just popping out of the landscape on a regular basis.

Saw a coffee flag at the driveway of a Cheela Plains Station with only a 1km driveway.  It was a great setup with some nice baked goods and quite a few people camping, helicopters landing, etc.

From there pretty much onto Exmouth.  Was surprised how barren the first hour or so heading up the North West Cape was but then got a bit more interesting as the Cape Range sticks up like a spine in the middle in the upper part of the cape and encompasses Cape Range NP.  On the East side is Exmouth and Learmonth Airport – a shared military/civilian facility.  On the West is Ningaloo Reef.

Funny motel/hotel called “The Potshot” which has wartime significance, with mostly backpackers but querky and clean and an attached bottle shop with Chardonnay as well as a tavern for dinner.

Day 61 – Lizi arrives – Cape Range NP and Ningaloo recon – 302km

Lizi was flying into Learmonth today for our first meetup in 2 months.  She wouldn’t arrive until 2pm or so.  So back 20kms or so out of town South to take a run up into the Charles Knife Canyon and lookouts in Cape Range NP.  Stunning and not far to go.  The second gorge featured is Shothole Canyon.  It had it’s own road, but my map showed a track completing a loop to avoid having to backtrack.  That track took me an interesting ride on a rocky but scenic track, starting with a bypass of a locked gate stating management access only.  I was feeling like things were going well, as I could see I was nearly at Shothole Canyon having taken this alternate route, but then realized I was at a lookout at the top of a cliff.  The normal way to this spot is via a 7km loop hike from below.  I was staring at the road I wanted to be on from the lookout about 300m below.  Oh well, nothing to do but backtrack!  Checked out Shothole via the official route … Decided to ride around the tip and as far as the bitumen would take me down the western Ningaloo side to Yardie Creek crossing.  Here the sealed road ends and you can watch some hyped up 4WDs towing just about everything powering their way through the soft sand.  For those inclined and equipped there are quite a few camps on the sand track along the reef south of Yardie Creek, eventually culminating at Ningaloo Station where you can cut all the way back to the East side of the NWC.

Headed back to await Lizi’s delivery in an airport shuttle – all this toddling around had racked up 302km for the morning.

Was so nice to see her pull in and be reunited after quite some time.  Was the beginning of a great few days.  First things first though – I offloaded everything I hadn’t used to Lizi’s bag, and swaped out warmer sleeping bag, rainwear, etc for the lightweight stuff I’d used across the top of Australia.  This was really a perfect rendesvoux point in that regard as I’d just crossed from the hot to the medium, and shortly to be colder part of the ride – whether South or inland, it’s colder by a bit.  Walked into Exmouth and checked things out before having dinner at the Froth brewery.

Day 62 – Transfer to Ningaloo and Sal Salis – 67km

Lizi was picked up by Sal Salis crew and I followed down with the bike.  We were barely 2 hours there and felt fully settled in.   Got settled in our tent with great water view, snorkeled right off beach out front, carefully inspected the extensive help yourself wine, gin and whiskey bar.  Staff just rolling up taking orders for lunches, dinners, breakfasts, anything.

Day 63 – Sal Salis

Each day there were a couple of outings that were optional but great.  We did Oyster Stacks and Turquoise bay snorkels – both excellent.  Small group, excellent staff dropping you in the right spots and pointing out all kinds of cool stuff.

More indulgence in the afternoon – I had to quality check all their wines.  Some lovely Albany oysters were delivered to Lizi for a pre-dinner snack. Each night they featured some wines.  Moss Wood tonight – YUM!

Day 64 – Sal Salis

First activity today was 5:45 am hike to the gorge just opposite.  Nup.

We participated in the afternoon snorkel to Lakeside.  Saw some different and bigger fish like drummer and trevally.  Another wonderful beach.

But it was shortly after we exited the water that right in front of us, a lone dolphin started careening through a school of hundreds of large mullet – they all literally flew through the air in a massive display and again and again.  On 3 occasions the dolphin singled out one and tossed it up in the air before grabbing and swallowing it.  It was something else to watch.

The feature wines tonight were Howard Park – also a favorite and they started with  14 year old bottle of aged Riesling – I was in my happy place – the other one when I’m not under the bike covered in oil.

Day 65 – Depart Sal Salis – Lizi for Sydney, Steve for Monkey Mia – 788km

All good things must come to an end and we honestly felt like we’d been at Sal Salis for a week – such was they way they looked after you and the relaxed nature of things – all non-pretentious but incredibly well catered.  Being right there in the dunes and just going for short 2 hour jaunts with the staff meant you didn’t waste any time on the road – you were either enjoying the base, or the outing.

Lizi got shuttled by her favorite driver Justin who she’d chatted with the whole way in.  He got her started on some of the history and then during our stay she devoured a good history book on Exmouth and came to understand the military relevance, the piles of large antennaes, etc.  He took her up to the lighthouse on the way out so she could see the views in all directions.

Before her departure, Lizi waved me off on the bike – it had been stashed out the back with the staff quarters one dune away.  She noticed a bright green glow down near the gear shifter.  Twas the budgie I thought had hit my leg few days before but didn’t see anything in the rear view mirror.

The trip to Monkey Mia was a fair ride and honestly was much longer up the World Heritage Listed Shark Bay drive onto the peninsula than I realized.  Thought it was like 25 km in – try 125km.

Popped into Canarvon just to eyeball it on the way down.  Some wildflowers starting to show which WA is famous for when they have a spree.  The cold wetter weather had delayed them and I got the benefit of that.

The road into Monkey Mia .. and Denham just before – an actual town .. is just super high quality bitumen on this sand substrate you see either side. You keep cresting hills and glimpsing views of amazing shoreline and bays.  A little light spitting of that rain thing again, but nothing significant – more a sign of things to come.

Arrived at Monkey Mia having seen almost no-one on the road, feeling quite remote, and then there it is .. the RAC holiday park – it’s the only game in town and I had to pay quite a bit for a room for the night.  Had a tavern and restaurant on the premises and the AFL semi-final was on the big screen – where was Neil? Canada.

Next morning, signed up or paid should I say the park fee so I could see the famous dolphins – someone had told us it was a bit corny, but hey.  And the guide with the microphone headset talking through a loudspeaker talked us through how it might work for up to 3×20 minute encounters they were approved to do per day.  He also added, “if the dolphins feel like it”.  Well they didn’t.  They had pocketed the fees and were porpoising around about 150m offshore and being proper little shits.  I gave it 20 mins and then got on the bike and rode off.  We had after all seen the great mullet massacre just a day before and I had a decent ride ahead.

Day 66 – Monkey Mia to Horrocks Beach via Kalbarri NP – 491km

First had to ride back down the same way I came in the day before – a big backtrack to the Overlander Roadhouse for refuel.

Then on down the coast to turn in to Kalbarri.  Some beautiful wildflowers showing up along the roads now in pinks, purples, whites, yellows and reds.  Going into Kalbarri the flora really changed again and I took a photo of some amazing Kangaroo Paws.  A couple of emus crossed the road in front of me – luckily at a safe distance.  Also saw a Dad emu with about 20 chicks as I rode past them walking in burned bush next to the road – lucky no road crossing.  At this point the winds started to whip up to gale force hitting me on my right side along with heavy squalls of rain – was hard to keep the bike on the road.  I had intended to at least visit Nature’s Window at Kalbarri to get the Instagram shot but was little point given the weather.  Further down along the coast in the park, the sun did re-emerge and more stunning beaches and views.  Having skipped the walks, I set my sites on getting to Horrocks Beach by 2pm.  The general store is famous for their fish and chips and only take orders up until 2.  Then have a siesta until 4.  I was just going to make it if I didn’t need to stop to use my auxiliary fuel so was trying to go not too fast to make it last but not be late.  I would surge on the uphills that scavenges some fuel stuck in the right side of the tank and splashes over to the side where it can be used.

I rolled down the hill to the general store at 1:50pm.   My tank takes 21 litres.  I filled up 20.9 litres and ordered dinner.

Horrocks is a quaint place with all the original fisherman’s shacks painted in nice colors.  Back at my tent in the caravan park a couple came up and started talking about the bike.  They insisted I come over to their cabin for wine.  They’d just been to the store to stock up and were carrying a few bottles.  Rob and Di were pretty crazy – he’d run a very successful plumbing business with 30 odd plumbers and they lived on the gold coast.   But soon I realized they weren’t stocking up at the shop, they were re-stocking.  Di it seems had already had 2 bottles and Rob probably about the same.  She became comatose and ended up just falling asleep sitting up.  Rob put her to bed and went and collected the fish and chips, and another bottle of wine.  I was having a lot of fun talking to him because all the punk bands I’d listened to in Detroit days as a teen were tattooed on him – no kidding.  He plays music in a punk band!  We got on well, but then it kind of gets to the point you think you better slip away.  He was insisting I stay in the spare room in the cabin, but I opted for my tent in the now high winds and rain to avoid any awkward morning situation. 

Day 67 – Horrocks Beach to Perth via Indian Ocean drive – 564km

I rose in the dark and slipped away before the crazy couple were awake!  Grabbed breakfast at a little cafe in nearby Northhampton .. A nice historic village.

Rolled onto Geraldton and was surprised how substantial it was.  Also just how much wheat there is – with canola mixed in.  Was desperate for a front tyre and that was on my mind today.  The Geraldton shops didn’t open early enough so kept moving and arranged to get one in southeast Perth.  Not a moment too soon – the pairs of knobs were worn down to the seam on the carcass which had just started to wear.  And the knobs on the sides for turning were about to tear off.

I rode down the Indian Ocean drive which has some really interesting flora changes.  Strange fields of grass trees that look a bit Dr Seuss-esque.  Lots of flowers all the way.

Coffee in Yanchep but otherwise motored on into and through Perth direct to the tyre place.  Happiness is new rubber!  That tyre had done 10,400km when the longest I’ve ever kept a front before would be 6,000km.

Lizi’s brother lives in Perth and I’d arranged to stay 2 nights to change my oil and do any other needed maintenance.  Unfortunately I was 2 days ahead of them arriving back from Europe, but they arranged a key with a neighbour and I had the benefit of the house to get the jobs done. 

Day 68 Perth

Main job was new oil, but I was getting worried because more oil now than ever was leaking out onto the left case of the engine and not how I wanted to cross the Nullabor.  Cleaned everything up and having had the bike in total pieces enough times, suspected a rubber grommet that allows the ignition pickup wires to exit the case was no longer doing it’s job.  Cleaned everything thoroughly and got high temp sealant and filled in around the wires.  Am writing these 3 days hence and am so darn happy to say it worked .. at least well enough!

A few missing bolts from chain and oil cooler guards, bolt for bashplate replaced and ready to roll.

Dinner at Froth Brewery at North Beach, both nights.

Day 69 Perth to Augusta – 416km

Weather was horrible leaving Perth – a couple of hours in spray and traffice until about 40kms south of Mandura you break free into really nice driving, and the weather had fined up at the same time.  Into Dunsborough in bright sunshine where locals told me had been raining hard past few days.  In fact the whole way down, the amount of standing water in paddocks and sides of roads is quite something. Up to Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, and then exploring the stunning beaches in the NP via little access roads and really well designed pull-outs so you could easily enjoy it.  Just can’t get tired of looking at turquoise/azure waters against white sand.

Rode out to Yallingup Beach, and then down the Caves Road through Margaret River passing several of my favorite wineries.  Rolling into Augusta, continued to Cape Leuwin while the weather held and checked out some nice bays and views.  The climate controls in my “budget motel room” (really was .. 90 bucks) included the bimodal old fashion bar heater on the wall.  On and off were it’s key operating modes.

Dinner at the pub opposite where there were so many people, a Belgian group asked if would share a table with other folks so they could have mine and bought me a beer for my trouble.  And the table I got sat at was with a couple talking adventure bikes! 

That endeth the West Coast of Australia.