Week 3 Busselton(WA) to Karratha(WA)
Day 15 2/5/22 – A Rest Day in Busseldon (Margaret River)
Firstly a big shout out to brother Tony, who is religiously reading this blog over his cornflakes each morning. Despite the fact he works for IBM he had a glitch yesterday and couldn’t see it. Brother Boxy helped out by saying he could.
Well a well needed rest day. The Big Guy (formally known as the Gibster aka Aandy aka Gibbo) needed to attend to his Hay Fever today. We will test him again tomorrow to see if it is safe to leave…..there is much pollen on the way to the Kimberley.
Russ was also wearing a stress injury to his gear changing foot and made the most of the morning rubbing voltarin and taking voltarin hopefully the right way around.
At noon Russ was feeling fine and took the bike for a cruise down the Caves road past all the wineries and beaches. Bloody fantastic; but there wasn’t anyone surfing….wtf… he asked at the local hotel why this was so and was told that “the weather wasn’t quite right and the surf not perfect”…..seriously if that was the prognosis at Manly you would have to drop in to get a wave!
Russ continued down the Caves Road past yet more recognisble wineries (Vasse Fexis, Cape Mentelle, Evans and Tate) until he ventures into Leeuwin Estate. Always wanting to taste the Art Series he settled in for an hour. In the mean time the Big Guy went off to the Salvos in Busseldon to buy a pair of jeans ($7) as he couldn’t contemplate the rash the leathers would cause at 35 degrees and the terminator booked a Tiger Moth flight in the morning. ( There seems to be a magic pudding of Tiger Moths around the country).
Quick fun fact; there are so many French names around here. Geographe and Naturaliste were the names of two French boats sent out in 1774 to try and claim New Holland if they could find a sea path between it and NSW….(they didn’t), but they were here!
Have to get up early now to see Kevinn fly the Tiger Moth, then off to Cottesloe beach.
Day 16 3/5/22 Busselton(WA) to Cottesloe(WA) via Busselton Airport and Cape Naturaliste 350kms
Huge excitement today as Captain Bigglesworth, Biggles for short and formally known as Kevinn took to the skies in a Tiger Moth. He said it was a highlight of his life. The Big Guy said “what about riding around Australia”……Oh yea that too. Russ was too busy reading emails to notice that Biggles had returned to base and was given a prod to start working out where we were going now.
Captain Bigglesworth said his goodbyes to the Squadron leader and we were off to Cape Naturaliste as we had to visit both Capes of Margaret River (100km walk if anyone wants to to the Cape to Cape). Hung out for a while took some pics of the lighthouse and had the morning pick me up. Learned that the lighthouse was built in 1903 and was powered of Kerosene until 1978 when electricity came to the area. OK enough education crap. Back on the Bikes non stop to Cottosloe Beach….Gin and Tonics were waiting. Russ navigated blindly following google through all the industrial areas of South Freemantle, across the Swan and found the Hotel. So suffice to say we haven’t seen a thing of Perth City. I hear its over rated anyway. Watched the sunset from the Bar in relative silence. The Big Guy thought that was because we had run out of things to talk about. Russ said Nah…”It’s because your Hay fever has made you deaf and Im over signing” We then went to a great restaurant to have what could be our last decent dinner until say Port Douglas?
A sleep in for Russ and the Big Guy coz Biggles is getting his tyre replaced in the morning….then off to Geraldton
Day 17 4/5/22 Cottesloe(WA) to Geraldton(WA) 420kms
A leisurely start coz we were set to wait for The Captain to get his tyres changed over. The Big Guy and Russ went to breakfast at the same Italian place we had dinner at, as it was where all the beautiful people of Mossman Park and Peppermint Grove hung out, so we were right at home. After the Avocado, Walnut and Honey on a toasted Bagel, Russ said enough of this foo foo stuff lets get on the road north. At the same time the Captain rang and said his spark plugs were going to take a bit more time and to go without him and he would meet us there. The Big Guy said “Yea that’s a no brainer” So we left the Perth (which none of us actually saw) and hit up the Indian Ocean Drive which took us to the Pinnacles (like limestone stalagmites just chilling in the desert). Took plenty of Pics looking like kids in the candy shop, then took a ride around the desert road consisting of hard and soft sand. The Big Guy referred to it as “the juxtaposition of ancient landscape and modern machinery”..wtf who would have thought.
A quick bite in Cervantes, Russ wanted to go to the Lobster Shack, but the Big Guy wanted to push on. The sun has been relentless as we are riding north and despite the nice tan, it makes riding that much more intense. Another 200kms of gentle turns which meant we didn’t have to go off cruise control and we eventually rocked into Geraldton which is another WA tidy town. Grain, minerals and lobsters mean there is too much money here. You can tell that from the city prices for the food in the motel restaurant (which was actually excellent). The Captain rocked in an hour later, the usual pre dinner drink, dinner and bed by 8.30. Monkey Mia tomorrow to feed to Dolphins!
Day 18 5/5/22 – Geraldton(WA) to Denman(WA) via Monkey Mia 450kms
Well the big guy was virtually at full strength this morning so he ordered a vehicle check up. Reminiscent of Norway we left the Motel and all got lost (well Russ in particular). He claimed he was refuelling at the first Petrol Station; the others moved on to one that provided superior 98. The Big Guy sent Russ a photo of where they were so he rode all around Geraldton trying to match the picture with what he was seeing. Seriously this was the most traffic we have seen since leaving Sydney. Eventually met up and attended the regulation tyre and oil check and moved forward.
The wind was crazy today, blowing from the east, so was hard going for about two hours. The countryside has now changed to red earth and scrub and we were getting heavy buffering from the wing and the road trains. Pulled into the Billabong Roadhouse (pop 10) and had a pretty good coffee! Pressed on down the peninsula to Denham and Monkey Mia….bloody impressive, the road was well maintained and the views fantastic, no wonder Dirk Hartog ran into it. We came into Denhan and our accommodation to find it was full of Bogan recreational fishermen from Perth who because of the wind conditions today decided to get on the turps from 9am. The only reason we got this cabin is because 3 of their mates couldn’t come. Dave who was well cut when we rolled up wanted a chat, but when he called Russ “Turbo” that was the end of any civilised conversation. As I write they are still going hard, but we have put the Big Guy against the common wall so he can either spread Hay Fever annoy them with the snoring.
We did see the Dolphins at Monkey Mia, but the flies were out of control so it was the most irritating Dolphin display ever! Got back and our Bogan mates invited us to their BBQ. Russ said he had an appointment with his hair dresser and would have to decline. They understood completely.
There is also a first nations funeral tomorrow so the Pubs are on liquor control, no spirits on sale and only medium strength beer. Our mates next door said no drama they have enough to kill a Navy.
Went to the Pub for dinner which was great and headed home and watched Star Wars to drown out our Fisshy Friends.
Well readers we are half way around the country today, having logged 7,780kms. Let the journey continue,
Day 19 6/5/22 Denham to Exmouth 680kms
OK, this has been our biggest riding day on tour. We wanted to set of early so we could sidestep our bogan mates next door….but they were up at 7 asking if they kept us awake. We could tell that they were seriously intimidated by us by their apologetic stance. Russ said “No drama, I hope you guys had a good time” – a euphonism for “Yeah you kept us awake but what could we do….we put the big guy in the room next o you to keep you awake with his snoring”.
Had to backtrack down the peninsula for 100kms and then turned northward again. As we get further north the sun is higher in the sky so now much easier to negotiate. The desert is green because of all the rain, but that is not good because it brings flys…..we are not sure why but we can attest to the bastards being everywhere.
The Big Guy has a wind shield that directs airflow straight to the bottom of his helmet. As he doesn’t have a chin guard, the wind proceeds straight up to mouth, ergo he has had a number of bug smashes to his lips and surrounding cheeks….he looks like a chequerboard tonight.
Russ decided to do a bit of research on bug hits. An average bug is about one tenth of a gram and it decelerates at say 140km/h (40m/s). Therefore the force that it hits is about half a newton which is the same as hitting a stationary hammer at 3km/h. So it kind of hurts on open skin like the throat area. Russ and the Captain have a few bruises on the throat but the big guy’s chin area looks smashed.
We turned off to Exmouth and had a glorious ride through the green desert peppered with termite hills that looked like the Lord of the Rings. Had to stop and take a few pics as it was the only highlight of an exhausting day. Passed a sign that said the commonwealth uses strong transmission signals that could cause electronic devices to explode in this area, so Russ turned off the navigation….at least there was only one road in.
On arrival at the Potshot Resort, we renegotiated the the three bed dorm room to a two bedroom studio. Russ is in the kitchen.
An excellent night in the resort for dinner and had the live stream of the Buffalo Paradise concert beamed into the bar (well at least our table). The Spanish waiter thought is was the footy and said we could watch it on the main screen.
Rest day tomorrow on Ningaloo Reef.
Day 20 7/5/22 Rest Day in Exmouth (Ningaloo Reef)
Russ awoke not knowing where he was. Why was he on a mattress in a kitchen? After a few moments he had regained his memory and was thankful for the great sleep. The dorm room for three was a distant memory. Went to check out the town and had a pretty good breakfast at a local café. Russ wanted to check out the Big Prawn, the Beaches and the North West Cape Communications Centre.
Th Big Guy came along for the ride and we had the requisite photos at the Big Prawn (which the Captain tells us came second in the “Big” competition), so we have now captured one and two! (See Big Lobster – Day 5)
Raced off to the Harold Holt Communications site. A massive array of 13 towers that uses ultra low frequency band to communicate with submarines and ships in the Indian and Western Pacific Oceans. The Yanks left at the end of the cold war and it is now run by the Aussies alone for allied signals. It is going to be a space tracking station at some point in the future. Took a few pics there before the Feds arrived. The Big Guy talked our way out of it.
Then off the Ningaloo Reef for some snorkling time. The Big Guy was noodled by another passenger (see pics). The Captain and Russ had no idea what was happening. The reef was not as colourful as the QLD version but the fish were amazing and the water was nice and warm to extend the snorkling time. The Boat Captain said he could tell the Big Guy learnt to swim “out east” as he had the style of a professional swimmer (presumably Dawn Fraser). BTW in WA if you are from another state you are from “Over East” , so there are only two states in the country.
We had a great time on the reef, but it was getting close to 5.30 and as the Captain goes to bed at 8.30 we had to get a few drinks in quickly and go to dinner. Back now and Russ and The Big Guy are watching a movie in Russ’s bedroom (the kitchen). Karratha tomorrow for the “Stairway to the Moon”‘.
Day 21 8/5/22 Exmouth to Karatha 540kms
We bade farewell to Exmouth after breakfast at the French chic hippy “early bird café”. As usual Russ was running late so the Big Guy sent him a picture of where they were. The pic was truncated and read “NDERING TIDE”, so Russ naturally though “Laundering Tide” and ended up at the laundromat. After some confusion it was cleared up…”Wandering Tide”. So Russ ate quickly and was back in alignment by 8.30.
The ride out was magnificent. Despite the fact we were going backwards down the cape for 100kms. We had to stop for some ant hill shots before heading on to the Pilbara. Amazing scenery with red soil, red hills, red Mesas, and then massive mine sites. We refuelled at a roadhouse and ran into a Bikie gang from Carnarvon, in particular Macho, Goat and Boofhead, who had been in Karatha for the weekend. Boofhead talked at Russ for 30 seconds…..Russ didn’t understand a thing and asked the Captain to translate coz he was a Harley Coach, but he missed it as well. So Russ just said YEAHHHHHH! And wandered off to his bike, got on it and met the Captain and the Big Guy up the road.
The weather is surprisingly mild and no flies, which is fantastic, but apparently it had been up to 50 degrees as late as a month ago. Rocked into Karatha and dropped our stuff off at the “Econo Lodge (Not Eco Friendly, but Money Friendly), and went for a tour of Dampier and the LNG Processing for the North West Cape. Pretty unbelievable operation. We weren’t aware that it was piped in from the shelf, processed in Dampier and transported to gas carriers in the port. Dampier is also the Port for Rios Pilbara mines. Getting hungry now so we went into town. Seriously the bars and restaurants could have been in Sydney (lots of cash), but you knew these guys were miners, coz they must have been deaf….they were virtually shouting a conversation. The cacophony of sound was discombobulating for the Captain and the Big Guy so we left soon after dinner and relaxed over a Pinot at the Econo Lodge.
We are staying at a Roadhouse tomorrow on our way to Broome!
Silver Foxes Motorcycle Club Australia 